Despite being Andalucía's fastest-growing town - it overtook Córdoba in the big three Andaluz tourist attractions, behind Sevilla and Granada, in the early 21st century - Ronda retains much of its historic charm, particularly its old town. It is famous worldwide for its dramatic escarpments and views, and for the deep El Tajo gorge that carries the rio Guadalevín through its centre. Visitors make a beeline for the 18th century Puente Nuevo 'new' bridge, which straddles the 100m chasm below, for its unparalleled views out over the Serranía de Ronda mountains.
Ronda is also famous as the birthplace of modern bullfighting, today glimpsed o¬nce a year at the spectacular Feria Goyesca. Held at the beginning of September, here fighters and some of the audience dress in the manner of Goya's sketches of life in the region. Legendary Rondeño bullfighter Pedro Romero broke away from the prevailing Jerez 'school' of horseback bullfighting in the 18th century to found a style of bullfighting in which matadores stood their ground against the bull on foot. In 2006 royalty and movie stars were helicoptered in for the Goyesca's 50th anniversary celebrations in its small bullring, while thousands jammed the streets and parks outside. Otherwise the bullring, Plaza de Toros, is now a museum, and visitors can stroll out into the arena.
Ronda also holds a lovely “romería” pilgrimage each year. This is in honour of the Virgen de la Cabeza and is organised by the local Catholic brotherhood of the same name. For those wishing to see the lighter side of life in Ronda this is a wonderful way to participate in a local tradition that dates back to the beginning of the 20th century.
Across the bridge, where an elegant cloistered 16th century convent is now an art museum, old Ronda, La Ciudad, sidewinds off into cobbled streets hemmed by handsome town mansions, some still occupied by Ronda's titled families. The Casa de Don Bosco is one such, its interior patio long ago roofed in glass against Ronda's harsh winters. Its small, almost folly-like gardens lose out, however, to the true star, a few minutes' walk to the furthest end of the Ciudad, the Palacio Mondragón. Clumsily modernised in parts during the 1960s, this still has working vestiges of the exquisite miniature water gardens dating from its time as a Moorish palace during Ronda's brief reign as a minor Caliphate under Córdoba in the 12th century.
The cobbled alley to the Mondragón leads naturally on to Ronda's loveliest public space, the leafy Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, which boasts a convent, two churches, including the toytown belltower of the iglesia Santa Maria de Mayor, and the handsome arched ayuntamiento (council) building. Nearby calle Armiñan leads down to the spacious plaza of the traditional workers' barrio, San Francisco, with excellent bars and restaurants. Back from the Mondragón, the Plaza del Campillo overlooks steps that zigzag down to a dramatic eye-level through the Puente Nuevo. The town's pedestrianised 'high street', calle Espinel, opposite the bullring, is nicknamed 'La Bola' and is where Rondeños go for virtually everything.
A Stroll Around Ronda
From "Plaza de España" proceed down "Calle Rosario" then first right down"Los Remedios" passing the "Iglesia de Nuestro Padre Jesus" to the "Old Bridge". Here you cross the over the river viewing the "Arab Bridge" on one side and the Gorge on the other. In front you will see the
Puerta de Felipe V. From the bridge you can see the Arab Baths.
Once over the New Bridge turn right and up the steep narrow lane passing the "Palacio de Marques de Salvatierre" (Note the wrought iron balconies that are typical of Ronda. This Palace dates back to the 16th Century.) The street now passes the "Casa del Rey Moro" (18th Century Palace). At the Casa del Rey Moro you can now visit the beautiful gardens and the "water mines"; descend 300 steps right and emerge right down inside the taj itself. Continue up the street you are back to the top again. Turn right and cross over the tajo by "Puente Nuevo" to return to "Plaza deEspaña".
If you wish to descend the Tajo to the West and perhaps take the classic "Ronda" photograph for yourself (best in the afternoon with the sunlight o¬n "Puente Nuevo".) From "Plaza de España" cross the Puente Nuevo and turn right down a street called Tenorio, keeping tothe right when the road divides after a few minutes you will notice atthe start of a cobbled path which drops steeply back towards the Tajo.Follow this down to ruins called "Arco del Cristo". From here are the best views of Puente Nuevo and the Tajo. Well worth the walk back uphill.
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